Que Sarlat Sarlat
What do foie gras, Josephine Baker and canoeing have in common? Except being amazing? They all can (could) be found in an interesting little corner of France known as the Dordogne also known as the Périgord which is about 2hrs north of Agen. The area is known for its good food, the beautiful towns, and for being a canoeing/hiking summertime hotspot. It's known as being the area in France the best preserved of the 14th century. My three main goals of the trip: visit Sarlat known for its amazing market, visit La Roque Gageac on of the most beautiful villages in France, and visit Josephine Baker's castle.
Sarlat is beautiful. Sarlat is frozen in time (except for the tourists) and one reason for this is that it was actually an old town that lost its prosperity during the hundred year war between England and France fought in this area (Protestant/Catholic), during this time while Sarlat was catching up again it was quite effectively cut off from the rest of France. Usually this would make a town shrivel up but Sarlat and the rest of this region was so self sufficient and resourceful on their own that they actually created a little secret garden in France. With their proximity to amazing food Sarlat also has a reputation for good eating. Sarlats well known foods? Duck/goose, foie gras, walnuts, wine from Bergerac, potatoes cooked in duck fat... Not exactly light but exactly delicious.
Supposedly Sarlat and other nearby towns in the south west were used as the inspiration for Disney's beauty and the beast. I'll let the photos speak for themselves...
After eating lunch and pursuing through the market and old town. I got old Gerty up and running to nearby La Roque Gageac. I did a hike through town and it was a beautiful day but there is not really much to do there. If you want your gelato on a hot day get it in Sarlat. I was running low on time anyway so I headed out to Chateau Milandes aka Jospehine Baker's castle. I totally understand why she would come here. This area is quiet and beautiful the people are friendly and the food is great therefore I have noticed many eccentric types (love) like to live in the south west in the country. She was a bit eccentric herself and when racism made it impossible for her to work in the US she set up in France and was able to live quite well here for awhile. Anyway the castle supposedly does a good job of telling the story of her life and also has a falcon show, but malheureusement for me they changed the dates of opening for 2017 without updating their website so I arrived to a little handwritten sign saying 'castle closed don't climb the gates'. Rats. The wind taken out of my sails I decided to back track to nearby gardens which were supposed to be pretty. No high expectations. Not thinking I was going to enjoy it...
Hum, this is beautiful, this is 5km around, this has tree forts and mazes and dinasaur exhibits and the best view of La Roque Gageac that you can find. I would recommend bringing a little picnic or snack to eat up at these gardens in one of their many hidden away gazebos. They even had a cool kids adventure park. Not a disapointment not at all, to the contrary my dears. The evening was contemplating its sunset and I headed out. The real joy of this trip was just the joy ride getting there. I appreciate so much how regions look so different in France and just a 30min trip can change your surroundings. In the south west the roads are small and you spend the majority of your time zipping up and down large hills. In the Dordogne you go under huge acquaducts and old walnut forests next to steep roofed country houses. I'm finishing writing this on the train from Agen to Avignon and I feel like I've just taken a 3 hr train ride from North Carolina to Southern California. Til next time...
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